In our opinion (and probably in that of many other people), the Royal Oak is the most iconic model of Audemars Piguet, and the reasons for this are countless. Beginning its journey in 1972 thanks to the genius of Gérald Genta, this collection has undergone numerous changes and has been presented in countless variations, but several things have never changed – the octagonal bezel, the “waffle” dial, the design of the integrated bracelet, and so on and so forth.
But... let us start with a few facts – the first Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph was only launched in 1997, in a 39 mm version. Fifteen years later, in 2012, the 41 mm version of the model was introduced for the first time, and despite the more modern size of the “larger” ROC, the 39 mm version remains highly appreciated and sought after. It is no coincidence that these early chronographs, also known among collectors by the nickname “Kasparov”, are today among the particularly interesting representatives of the Royal Oak family.
This instantly recognisable Royal Oak Chronograph takes the concepts of exclusivity and comfort to an entirely new level. As part of a limited edition of just 300 pieces, created in honour of the Swiss “Be Happy” sailing team and its participation in the America's Cup in Auckland in 2000, this unique version of the legendary chronograph is crafted from titanium.
The lightness of the case and bracelet gives the watch an unmistakable feeling when worn on the wrist. The manufacturing achievement at the time was remarkable, as titanium is an exceptionally difficult material to work with – especially on a model such as the Royal Oak, which is renowned for its complex surface finishing, bevelled edges and sharply defined lines. It is precisely the combination of this material with Audemars Piguet's characteristic finishing that makes this particular example so impressive.
The dial possesses its own unique character – the background is finished in a deep blue, reminiscent of the shades of the ocean, featuring the collection's iconic “Tapisserie” pattern. Fresh yellow accents have been added to the hands and hour markers, making this model one of the most vibrant Royal Oak variations to have appeared up to that point. The contrast between the rich blue, yellow details and greyish tone of the titanium gives the watch an exceptionally interesting and instantly recognisable personality.
This rare example is also distinguished by a special caseback engraved with the words “City of Sails”, together with information about the limited production run of 300 pieces. The name itself refers to Auckland, known as the “City of Sails”, while the connection with competitive sailing further complements the watch's sporty character. Unlike many other special editions, where the changes are primarily cosmetic, here Audemars Piguet also used a different material for the case and bracelet – another reason why this model is so interesting to collectors.
As most of you probably know, unlike the in-house Calibre 3126/3840 used in some later AP Offshore chronographs – based on the 3120 and fitted with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module – the classic Royal Oak Chronographs of this generation feature something rather different, to say the least – AP Calibre 2385.
This is a movement based on the legendary Frédéric Piguet 1185 – an integrated automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch, 37 jewels, a power reserve of approximately 40 hours and operating at the frequency characteristic of many AP movements, 21,600 vibrations per hour. One of its most interesting features is its relatively slim thickness of just 5.5 mm, which allows the Royal Oak Chronograph to preserve the elegant proportions inherent in Genta's original design.
To further emphasise the distinguished origins of the movement, the rotor is fitted with a heavy segment made of 18-carat gold. The calibre itself is a thoroughly proven and reliable movement, whose underlying architecture can be found under different names in watches from some of the most prestigious Swiss manufacturers. This is further proof that, despite its striking appearance, the Royal Oak Chronograph is first and foremost a serious piece of watchmaking.
And, of course, we cannot overlook the bracelet – one of the most characteristic and beloved features of every Royal Oak. In this particular case, it is also made of titanium and possesses all the distinctive features of Genta's design – broad, precisely finished links, a combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces, and an exceptionally smooth transition between the case and bracelet. Thanks to the lower weight of titanium, the watch is noticeably lighter than its stainless steel siblings, making it exceptionally pleasant to wear, especially considering the model's sporty character.
Truly a unique offering, worthy of a place in the collection of any admirer of the brand – and the fact that examples from this limited edition appear relatively rarely on the market reinforces the impression that many of them have found a permanent home in watch collections. The combination of just 300 pieces produced, a titanium case and bracelet, an unusual blue dial with yellow accents and an interesting historical connection with the America's Cup makes this Royal Oak Chronograph one of the most intriguing and collector-desirable representatives of Audemars Piguet's early special editions.
And the watch presented today is one of those rare opportunities to acquire such an exceptional piece!
