Today, for the first time, we have the pleasure of presenting to you a model from Tudor's now-cult Black Bay Fifty-Eight series—in its classic execution with a steel case, black dial, and gilt accents.
The collection's name was not chosen by chance. It refers to 1958, when Tudor introduced reference 7924, known among collectors as the "Big Crown" for its characteristic 8-millimeter crown. This was the brand's first diving watch, guaranteeing water resistance to 200 meters, and one of Tudor's most iconic historical models.
The modern Black Bay Fifty-Eight was introduced in 2018 as a tribute to this important timepiece. Instead of being a mere copy, however, the model combines the characteristic proportions and visual details of the 1950s with contemporary construction and a modern manufacture movement.
With its 39 mm diameter, the watch is significantly more compact than the standard Black Bay and is much closer to the dimensions of historical diving models. It is this balance between vintage proportions and a modern feel that almost immediately made it one of Tudor's most sought-after and desirable watches.
The model's sporting spirit is evident in every detail. The large, ribbed crown is a direct reference to the original "Big Crown," and the black domed dial is combined with the characteristic "Snowflake" hands—one of Tudor's most recognizable design elements.
The hour markers, hands, and minute scale are executed in a warm golden tone. These accents, often described as "gilt," give the watch its characteristic vintage feel without turning it into an overly literal replica of a past model.
The black unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with a matte anodized aluminum insert and a 60-minute scale in the same warm golden hue. The red triangle at 12 o'clock is another reference to the brand's early diving watches and adds a discreet touch of color to the otherwise restrained composition.
The kinship with the famous Rolex Submariner can hardly go unnoticed. It is found in the common historical origin, functional construction, and a number of characteristic proportions. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight, however, possesses enough of its own identity—mainly thanks to the "Snowflake" hands, the domed dial, the gilt details, and its warmer retro feel.
The case is crafted from stainless steel and combines satin-brushed and polished surfaces. The domed sapphire crystal complements the vintage look, while the screw-down crown and solid case back ensure water resistance to 200 meters.
The version presented is equipped with a solid steel bracelet, the design of which is reminiscent of Tudor's riveted bracelets from the 50s and 60s. The visible side "rivets" and the stepped construction are primarily an aesthetic reference, while the links themselves are manufactured to modern standards of strength and comfort.
At the heart of the watch beats the manufacture caliber Tudor MT5402—an automatic movement developed specifically for models with more compact dimensions.
The caliber operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 27 jewels, and offers an approximate 70-hour power reserve. Thanks to this, the watch can be taken off on a Friday evening and put back on on a Monday morning without needing to be reset and wound.
The movement uses a silicon balance spring, a variable inertia balance, and a sturdy bridge fixed at two points. It is officially certified as a chronometer by COSC and is designed with an emphasis on reliability, durability, and precise operation.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 79030N is one of those timepieces that look familiar at first glance, but gradually reveal their own character. It combines history, functionality, and excellent proportions, without losing the feel of a modern and perfectly usable everyday watch.
It is not difficult to see why the model became such a great success. It offers everything one would expect from a true Tudor diver's watch—robust construction, a manufacture movement, and excellent legibility—but presents it in a more compact, elegant, and timeless format.
