The model presented today is perhaps one of the most interesting and unique Rolex models in general – according to many, it is one of the most underrated Rolex models overall, and for that reason perhaps one of those on which it is worth focusing our attention when choosing the next model from the brand.
The so-called “new” Yacht-Master itself was introduced in 1992 with the reference 16628, and later the series was also supplemented with the Rolesium versions, through which Rolex designate the combination of steel and platinum in their watches. We have some suspicions that at Rolex, besides technical geniuses, there are also many philologists who take care of inventing terms and names. The Yacht-Master is the first model from the Oyster Professional series in which Rolex used the so-called “Maxi Dial” – a dial design where the markers and hands are larger for better legibility, thus also improving the luminescence, if only because there is a larger area to be filled with luminous material. The other difference compared with the other models from the Oyster Professional series is the shape and thickness of the case – on the Yacht-Master it resembles that of the Daytona, which is from an entirely different series, more than that of a Submariner, for example. In this way, the entire look of the watch is much more elegant and dressy than that of its “submarine” siblings.
The model presented today, however, is, let us put it this way – “a little more special”... It becomes one of the brand’s most desired gold watches, as it carries several innovations within it. First, it is precisely in the Yacht-Master that Everose is used – Rolex’s special alloy of 18-carat rose gold with platinum additives, which the brand claims prevents the colour of the alloy from changing over time. Second, it is precisely in this model that the brand’s new strap type is used, the so-called Oysterflex – a rubber strap with inserts made from a titanium and nickel alloy, very comfortable and incredibly beautiful in combination with the massive gold clasp. Third, the bezel is a raised Cerachrom bezel – again, in combination with the rose-gold case, a phenomenal result is achieved. All this gives you the opportunity to own a truly unique watch, in the making of which precious metals and numerous innovations have been used – and all this in a precious-metal case with an incredible presence. The red accents from the seconds hand and the “Yacht-Master” inscription only underline the nobility of the model, while the “Cyclops” at “3 o’clock” only confirms that the watch is a pure-blooded Rolex.
There are several differences compared with the 116655 version that came out a few years earlier. The first is that the dial design has larger markers and, as a result, the indications are more legible.
The other difference is the movement – the new Yacht-Master has the honour of carrying inside it the new calibre 3235, which has an increased power reserve of 70 hours and a seriously improved automatic winding system, in which the rotor is now mounted on a bearing and its efficiency has been increased by 15%. As for lubrication, the reversing wheels, one of the problematic areas from the point of view of friction, have a Teflon coating. The new 3235 contains 14 built-in patents and more than 90% new components, and in addition, it is twice as accurate as an official COSC chronometer.
The next, perhaps the biggest difference, is the clasp – in the new model a larger clasp is used, and in addition it has the GlideLock function, which makes adjusting the length of the strap very easy and quick.
We are sure that most colleagues reading this text are aware that Rolex call their water-resistant cases Oyster. In other words, when this name appears in the name of the watch, it means that it has a certain degree of water protection. Well, with this model you will not be able to explore the depths of the sea, but you will have no problems on your yacht, even if during a tack you fail to keep your balance and end up in the sea, as the guaranteed water resistance is 100 m, and everyone knows that Rolex test this parameter with at least a 50% margin.
The dial of the watch is very clean and easy to read, while the luminescence of the hands and indexes makes it easier to use at night – it is in a pleasant bluish colour and glows sufficiently brightly and for a long time.
Although the Yacht-Master is a professional instrument, as intended by the manufacturer from the very moment of its launch, it is clear to everyone that for quite some time it has become a luxury attribute – and for a long time this function has prevailed over the original reason for its creation. Perhaps precisely for this reason, Rolex do many things in this model in such a way that the appearance and overall impression created by the watch prevail over its functionality. The first thing that makes an impression is the sapphire – Rolex are proverbial for the fact that they do not apply anti-reflective coating to the crystals of their watches. There are several theories as to why, but the one we like the most is that Rolex do this so that the appearance of their watches does not change for a long time and generations of their owners can enjoy this consistency.
For the caseback of the watch, Rolex use a plain solid back, as they do in all their models – in this case it is devoid of any markings, inscriptions or other “decorations”. As we have already mentioned, for the production of this model the brand uses what it calls Everose – Rolex’s patented alloy of 18-carat rose gold. It is widely known that Rolex can be called fanatics when it comes to the alloys they use – a large part of the metallurgical processes are carried out in-house in order to guarantee consistent quality of the raw material. Many watches have passed through our hands, but we can say absolutely categorically that few brands devote so much attention and effort to the quality of the final product from the point of view of case finishing – and as a result, the outcome can only be unique quality and presence.
The overall impression is complemented by the bidirectionally rotating bezel of the watch – here again the material is specially made and differs from the materials used more commonly, which is why Rolex call it “Cerachrom”. The bezel itself is raised – the base is satin-finished, while the raised numerals are polished – the final effect is phenomenal.
As we have already mentioned, here a rubber Oysterflex strap with a profile tapering towards the clasp is used – this makes it very comfortable, while the clasp has a safety lock, micro-adjustment capability and GlideLock adjustment, allowing up to 15 mm of extension.
This model was certainly created at a time when Rolex are perceived more as a fashion accessory, which nevertheless has all the qualities to become a long-term partner of its owner. Besides not letting you down, it will also not lose much of its value, because it is no secret to anyone that this brand not only cannot be found with large discounts when new, but also has the reputation of producing some of the watches that best retain their value. And this particular model can confidently be placed among the front ranks of Rolex in terms of attractiveness and, accordingly, among the most sought-after and desired. One of the reasons for this is certainly the fact that this watch looks equally good on your wrist whether you are wearing a formal suit or worn jeans and a white T-shirt – in both cases, the Yacht-Master will help attract approving glances towards your appearance.
