The model presented today is perhaps one of the most interesting and unique Rolex models in general – for us personally, this was one of the watches we had been pursuing for quite a long time.
The so-called “new” Yacht-Master itself was introduced in 1992 with reference 16628, and in 2012 the series was replaced by the improved 116622 version – with a new bracelet, new clasp and changes to the dial. The model presented today is from the latest series, introduced in 2019, while this particular example was purchased from an authorised dealer at the end of 2021.
As is known, these models were named “Rolesium” by the creators and designers of the brand – we have some suspicion that at Rolex, besides technical geniuses, there are also many philologists who take care of inventing terms and names. With this name, the brand denotes the combination of steel and platinum in its watches. The Yacht-Master is the first model from the Oyster Professional series in which Rolex use the so-called “Maxi Dial” – a dial design where the markers and hands are larger for better legibility, and in this way the luminescence is also improved, if only because there is a larger surface area to be filled with luminous material.
The other difference compared with the other models from the Oyster Professional series is the shape and thickness of the case – in the Yacht-Master, it resembles that of the Daytona, which belongs to an entirely different series, more than that of a Submariner, for example. In this way, the entire appearance of the watch is much more elegant and dressy than that of its “submariner” siblings. The other similarity with the Daytona is in the layout of the bracelet – here it is again three-row, with a polished centre link, solid links and a clasp like on the Daytona. This is the model in which Rolex first used a clasp made from a single piece of steel, of the kind they later fitted to all their models.
But the most impressive specific features of this model, which also give it a great deal of uniqueness, are of course the bezel, which is made of precious metal, and the blue dial. This allows you to own a watch in whose production precious metals have been used, without forcing this fact upon those around you – because the appearance of platinum is almost indistinguishable from steel. The red accents from the seconds hand and the “Yacht-Master” inscription only emphasise the nobility of the model, while the “cyclops” at “3 o’clock” merely confirms that the watch is a pure-blooded Rolex.
We are sure that most colleagues reading this text are aware that Rolex call their water-resistant cases Oyster. In other words, when this name appears in the name of the watch, it means that it has a certain level of water resistance. Well, with this model you will not be able to explore the depths of the sea, but you will have no problems on your yacht, even if during a tack you fail to keep your balance and end up in the sea, as the guaranteed water resistance is 100 m, and everyone knows that Rolex test this parameter with at least a 50% margin.
The dial of the watch is very clean and easy to read, while the luminescence of the hands and indexes makes it easier to use at night – it is in a pleasant bluish colour and glows sufficiently brightly and for a long time.
Although the Yacht-Master is a professional instrument, as intended by the manufacturer from the very moment of its launch, it is clear to everyone that for quite some time it has become a luxury attribute – and for a long time this function has prevailed over the original reason for its creation. Perhaps precisely for this reason, Rolex do many things in this model in such a way that the appearance and overall impression created by the watch prevail over its functionality. The first thing that makes an impression is the sapphire – Rolex are proverbial for the fact that they do not apply anti-reflective coating to the crystals of their watches. There are several theories as to why, but the one we like the most is that Rolex do this so that the appearance of their watches does not change for a long time and generations of their owners can enjoy this consistency.
For the caseback of the watch, Rolex use a plain solid back, as they do in all their models – in this case, it is devoid of any markings, inscriptions or other “decorations”. As we all know, Rolex use noble 904L steel for their watches – the difference compared with the 316L steel commonly used by other brands lies in its greater resistance, especially to salt water. It is widely known that Rolex can be called fanatics when it comes to the steel they use – a large part of the metallurgical processes are carried out in-house in order to guarantee consistent quality of the raw material. Many watches have passed through our hands, but we can say absolutely categorically that few brands devote so much attention and effort to the quality of the final product from the point of view of case finishing – and as a result, the outcome can only be unique quality and presence.
As we already mentioned, a three-piece bracelet with solid links and a profile tapering towards the clasp is used here – this makes the bracelet very comfortable, while the clasp has a safety lock with the possibility of micro-adjustment and a diver’s extension.
The movement built into the watch deserves separate attention – this is the new in-house Caliber 3235, which has an increased power reserve of 70 hours and a seriously improved automatic winding system, in which the rotor is now mounted on a bearing and its efficiency has been increased by 15%. As for lubrication, the reversing wheels, one of the problematic areas from the point of view of friction, have a Teflon coating. The new 3235 contains 14 built-in patents and more than 90% new components, and in addition, it is twice as accurate as an official COSC chronometer. All of this allows the movement to be one of the few that fall into the brand’s “Superlative Chronometer” category.
This model was certainly created at a time when Rolex are perceived more as a fashion accessory, which nevertheless has all the qualities to become a long-term partner of its owner. Besides not letting you down, it will also not lose much of its value, because it is no secret to anyone that this brand not only cannot be found with large discounts when new, but also has the reputation of producing some of the watches that best retain their value. And this particular model can confidently be placed among the front ranks of Rolex in terms of attractiveness and, accordingly, among the most sought-after and desired models. One of the reasons for this is certainly the fact that this watch looks equally good on your wrist whether you are wearing a formal suit or worn jeans and a white T-shirt – in both cases, the Yacht-Master will help attract approving glances towards your appearance.