The model presented today is perhaps one of the most interesting and unique Rolex models of all – for us personally, this was one of the watches we had been pursuing for quite a long time, and today, for the first time, we have the opportunity to present one to your attention. Because what we are actually talking about is a model in the so-called mid-size 37 mm case.
The Yacht-Master itself was introduced in 1992 with reference 16628, while the steel and platinum version 16622 appeared in 1999. In 2012, it was replaced by the improved 116622 version – with a new bracelet, new clasp and changes to the dial. The model presented today belongs to the newer generation of the Yacht-Master 37, and this particular example was purchased from an authorised dealer at the end of 2021.
As is well known, these models were given the name “Rolesium” by the brand’s creators and designers – we have a suspicion that, besides technical geniuses, Rolex also employ quite a few philologists responsible for inventing terms and names. With this name, the brand designates the combination of steel and platinum in its watches.
The Yacht-Master was the first model in the Oyster Professional series in which Rolex used the so-called “Maxi Dial” – a dial design featuring larger markers and hands for improved legibility. This also enhances the luminescence, if only because there is a larger surface area to be filled with luminous material.
Another difference compared with other models in the Oyster Professional series is the shape and thickness of the case – on the Yacht-Master, it resembles that of a Daytona more closely than a Submariner, for example. This gives the watch a much more elegant and dressy appearance than its diving siblings.
Another similarity with the Daytona lies in the bracelet design – once again, it features three-piece links with polished centre sections, solid construction and a substantial clasp. This type of construction is one of the details that demonstrates how much attention Rolex devote to quality and wearing comfort.
But the most impressive distinguishing features of this model, which give it a considerable degree of uniqueness, are of course the bezel made of precious metal and the grey dial, which Rolex call the “Slate Dial”.
This gives you the opportunity to own a watch made using precious metals without drawing unnecessary attention to that fact – because platinum is almost indistinguishable from steel in appearance. The blue accents of the seconds hand and the “Yacht-Master” inscription only emphasise the noble character of the model, while the “Cyclops” at 3 o’clock confirms that this is a thoroughbred Rolex.
We are sure that most admirers of the brand know that Rolex call their water-resistant cases Oyster. In other words, whenever this name appears in the designation of a watch, it means that it offers a certain level of water resistance. Well, you will not be exploring the depths of the ocean with this model, but you will have no problems aboard your yacht, even if you lose your balance during a tack and find yourself in the sea, since the guaranteed water resistance is 100 metres. And everyone knows that Rolex subject their watches to exceptionally strict water-resistance testing.
The dial is very clean and easy to read, while the luminescence of the hands and hour markers makes it easy to use at night as well – it glows in a pleasant bluish colour, sufficiently brightly and for an extended period of time.
Despite the fact that the Yacht-Master was conceived as a professional instrument from the very beginning, it is clear to everyone that it has long since become a luxury accessory – and for quite some time, this role has taken precedence over the original purpose of its creation.
Perhaps for this very reason, Rolex make many design decisions on this model so that its appearance and the overall impression it creates take precedence over pure functionality. The first thing that catches the eye is the sapphire crystal – Rolex are well known for not applying an anti-reflective coating across the entire outer surface of their crystals. There are several theories as to why, but the one we like most is that Rolex do this so that the appearance of their watches remains unchanged for a long time, allowing generations of owners to enjoy this consistency.
For the caseback, Rolex use a conventional solid back, as they do on most of their classic models – in this case, it is completely free of markings, inscriptions or other “decorations”.
As we all know, Rolex use high-grade 904L steel for their watches – the difference compared with the 316L commonly used by other brands lies in its greater resistance, particularly against salt water.
It is widely known that Rolex can be described as fanatics when it comes to the steel they use – a large part of the metallurgical processes is carried out in-house to guarantee consistent raw-material quality. Many watches have passed through our hands, but we can state with absolute confidence that no other brand devotes as much attention and effort to the quality of the finished product in terms of case finishing – and the result is inevitably exceptional quality and presence.
As already mentioned, the watch features a three-piece bracelet with solid links and a profile that tapers towards the clasp. This makes the bracelet very comfortable, while the clasp features a safety mechanism and micro-adjustment through the EasyLink system, allowing an additional 5 mm of extension.
The movement inside the watch deserves particular attention – this is the in-house Calibre 2236, developed by Rolex specifically for its more compact models. The movement is equipped with a Syloxi silicon hairspring, automatic winding and offers a power reserve of 55 hours. Naturally, it is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, guaranteeing an accuracy of −2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
This model was certainly created at a time when Rolex watches were increasingly perceived as luxury and fashion accessories, while still possessing all the qualities needed to become long-term companions to their owners – watches that will not let you down and have excellent potential to retain a significant proportion of their value.
It is no secret that the brand's new watches are difficult to find at substantial discounts, and Rolex have a reputation for producing some of the best value-retaining watches. This particular model can confidently be placed among the most attractive Rolex references and, accordingly, among the most desirable.
One of the reasons for this is certainly the fact that this watch looks equally good on your wrist whether you are wearing a formal suit or a pair of worn jeans and a white T-shirt – in both cases, the Yacht-Master will help attract admiring glances towards your appearance.
