The history of Breguet spans four centuries and is so rich in innovations and reforms that one could state with a certain degree of confidence that watchmaking in its familiar parameters today would not exist without this truly iconic brand. We have all heard of Breguet hands, the Breguet spring, and in some countries in the late 19th and early 20th century, all pocket watches were called "Breguet" - just as we now call copiers Xerox or baby diapers Pampers...
Today, for the first time, we have the pleasure of presenting to your attention a representative of the brand's Marine series – and not just any, but the largest and most expensive representative of the Marine Royale series. The series unites all this heritage and reminds all of us why Breguet is such a great brand. When the watch was first introduced in 2010, it initially polarized the opinions not only of the brand's admirers but of watch enthusiasts in general. The piece presented here is a typical example of this series - it is offered in an exquisite coin-edged case, crafted from 18-carat gold. The dial is distinguished by an intricate guilloché – such a combination of radial brushing on the outer edges of the dial and three-dimensional cubes in the central part cannot be found in any other brand on the market. The old-fashioned aesthetic of the watch is further enhanced by the Roman numerals and blue ornate hands.
The presented watch has large case dimensions even for today at 45 mm and a height of 17.45 – however, due to the bezel design, the watch looks and wears even larger.
Undoubtedly, one of the most attractive things about this watch (besides the fact that it's a Breguet;-) is the abundant use of 18-carat rose gold in its production and a movement that offers a mechanical alarm – not many watches can boast such a function, and the fact that the watch dial also has an alarm power reserve indicator and an on/off indicator for it makes it unique! It operates at the frequently used frequency for mechanical watches of 4Hz – or in other terms, 28,800 vibrations per hour. The factory index of this work of engineering art is 519R, and it is in this model that Breguet first "showed" it to the general public. In the tradition of most Breguet timepieces, the rotor is made of rose gold, it has over 45 hours of power reserve and features 36 jewels – dry numbers... This watch, however, has many different and interesting innovations and technical solutions, which not only distinguish it from the crowd but also give it a very attractive appearance and overall presence.
We have already mentioned the first distinctive feature, and that, of course, is its unique movement. The second is the way the indications on the dial are designed – besides the already mentioned indicators for the alarm's power reserve and its activation, the alarm scale is designed as an inner circle with blue dots for markers. The third is the guilloché, which is not only different in the separate circles but also varies within the inner circle – the first quarter has straight segments, and the second and third have semi-radially curved ones – very impressive, elegant, and different... And of course, last but not least are all the characteristics that not only give the watch the full right to bear the name Marine but also to be classified among diver's watches – water resistance up to 300 m, a rotating bezel, and a rubber strap unique in its comfort and security.
Despite the initial confusion due to all these differences and the many indications, the dial is easily legible and the data is recognizable – all thanks to the well-thought-out design and, of course, the brand's experience and heritage. The colors used, besides the brown (which combines in an incredible way with the rose gold), are white and blue, and this only contributes to the legibility of the indications.
The case back is open, which allows us to enjoy not only the operation of this wonderful movement but also the unique finish for which Breguet is justly famous.
