DateWeekdayMonthPerpetual calendarSmall secondsLuminous handsTempered blue handsRotating BezelScrew-Down CrownLuminous indices
Description
Unquestionably, the Maxi Marine is as iconic a model for Ulysse Nardin as the Navitimer is for Breitling and the Speedmaster for Omega. Its history begins as early as the 19th century, at a time when sailors used sextants to find their ships' positions and chart their routes – even then, Ulysse Nardin chose the correct (as it would prove in the future) strategy to specialize in the creation of marine chronometers for this market niche.
Although the company was founded and is based in Neuchâtel – a region with no connection to the seas, Ulysse Nardin managed to foresee the opportunity for the marine series of its timepieces to achieve true success.
Starting from the second half of the 19th century, marine chronometers were subjected to rigorous tests at the Neuchâtel and Geneva observatories and, as you can surely guess, Ulysse Nardin's chronometers passed these tests with unwavering success. Thanks to this, they were quickly recognized as the best marine timepieces available on the market.
The Acqua Perpetual collection connects the seemingly opposite categories of sports models and those with multiple complications. The model has the honor of being the world's first diver with a perpetual calendar. It uses the unique self-winding caliber UN-33, patented by Ulysse Nardin – operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), with 34 jewels and a power reserve of over 48 hours. What is interesting and different about this movement is that all adjustments from the minute hand to the year indicator are synchronized. With a few turns of the crown, all calendar displays move forward and backward several days, several months, or even several years.
The silvery (it could even be called white) dial of the watch is considered by many to be the most beautiful and balanced of all options offered by the manufacturer due to the prominence of the indications. Depending on the angle at which light falls on it, it responds with different shades between silver and white. Viewed from another angle, a slight bluish tint is noticeable, which contrasts very well with the silvery dial.
The double anti-reflective coating is so effective that at certain angles it creates the impression that you can touch the dial and hands with nothing to stop you. The guilloché achieved by the manufacturer, in the form of a golf ball surface, is something that could undoubtedly cause concern, but in person, all doubts are dispelled by the effect with which the density and texture of the dial contribute to the overall aura of this timepiece. The other thing that is difficult to see from photos is the satin-matte finish of the dial. At some angles, it creates the impression that the dial has its own radiance, which scatters sunrays all around.
The luminescence is very bright – thanks to its relatively large markers, the dial and hands remain legible even in the darkest conditions. During the day, the anti-reflective coating makes the dial very clear, and the date magnifier makes this indication recognizable with a quick glance. The hands, for their part, are skeletonized – besides being a design whim, an admittedly successful one, this also has a functional significance – in this way, the hands in any of their positions do not obstruct the multiple other indications on the dial.
Ulysse Nardin makes no compromises with the case back of this model – here, the watch model Acqua Perpetual is inscribed and of course, the brand's famous anchor. The engraving is of very high quality, and the polished steel completes the overall look of this part of the watch.
On the side opposite the crown, Ulysse Nardin have engraved the watch's number in a very beautiful cursive script. The more recognizable look of a Ulysse Nardin is almost always associated with a rubber strap with the "links", but this one is offered in the much more masculine execution, namely with a bracelet – besides being the more expensive option, it is also much more balanced and more presentable.
The bracelet is solid, three-row, with the brand's logo inscribed on both sides of the watch, and the clasp is substantial, with release pushers on both its sides.
This is one of the few timepieces that can very successfully play the role of both an elegant watch and a sports one. One thing is certain – this jewel on your wrist will not go unnoticed, but not with the obtrusiveness that a Super Avenger, for example, carries, but rather with an effortless respect, which few timepieces possess.