When the first Rolex Datejust was introduced in 1945 – the year of the brand's 40th anniversary – it made history as the first automatic waterproof certified chronometer with a date on the dial. The 'Cyclops' was added in 1955 to visually magnify the date two and a half times, thus making the reading more legible and clear, and this feature became one of the most recognizable Rolex hallmarks of all time.
In 2009, Rolex introduced the Datejust II. This line of timepieces offers the features of the original and iconic Rolex Datejust in a simpler and more modern design and includes new innovations. One of the most significant differences between the Rolex Datejust and the Rolex Datejust II is, of course, the size – the new one is 41 mm, significantly larger and following the trend for larger watch cases. The other difference is the movement – the Datejust II has the honor of carrying the caliber 3136, made by the brand specifically for this model – an in-house movement with Paraflex shock protection, a Parachrom hairspring, a COSC certified chronometer, a 48-hour power reserve, and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
In 2017, the brand also introduced the newest version of the model under reference 126300. One of the biggest changes is the movement – the new caliber 3235, which has an increased power reserve of 70 hours and a seriously improved automatic winding system, where the rotor is now on a ball bearing, and its efficiency is increased by 15%. As for the lubrication, the reversing wheels, as one of the problematic areas in terms of friction, have a Teflon coating. The new 3235 has 14 integrated patents and more than 90% new components, and it is also twice as accurate as the official COSC chronometer.
It is not in vain that the Datejust is the brand's most popular and recognizable model after the iconic Submariner – and the Datejust II allows this popularity to be presented in a contemporary interpretation. This particular timepiece is in the most sought-after combination – a deep blue dial with luminescent hour markers.
Indeed, the detail of this watch (as with all modern Rolexes we have had the opportunity to examine) is impressive. Starting with the incredible dial, which Rolex calls the “Bright Blue dial”, and the luminescent coating in the brand's specific Chromalight. Moving on to the renowned sapphire with the 'Cyclops' – in this case, the brand's highest grade of sapphire is used, which has allowed the overall height of the watch to be reduced compared to its predecessors.
Of course, separate attention must be paid to the case and the bezel – an incredible combination of brushed highest-grade 904L steel with faceted polished edges and details in places. As you know, Rolex pays special attention to the steel used and for this purpose has its own foundries for the production of all its alloys. The bezel is the brand's characteristic 'fluted' style, which gives an incredible radiance and has nothing in common with the other Datejust with the 'smooth' bezel – they are simply different watches. This one has a killer presence on your wrist, and the fact that the bezel is made of a precious alloy further reinforces the overall impression – as you know, Rolex calls this alloy Rolesor and it is also patented by the brand.
And of course – the bracelet, or whatever you may call it. As can be expected from a Rolex, it is truly good. In this case, it is an Oyster bracelet with a solid clasp, crafted from a single block of steel, and not from bent sheet metal, as is the case with most brands. The only thing it lacks (but perhaps only in our opinion) is the Glidelock clasp of the Sub, but here the so-called Easylink is fitted, which allows for micro-adjustment with an additional 5–20 mm at the lugs.
Truly, the combination of this dial with such a bracelet makes the watch look impressive.
