When the first Rolex Datejust was introduced in 1945 – the year of the brand’s 40th anniversary – it entered history as the first automatic water-resistant certified chronometer with a date on the dial. The “Cyclops” was added in 1955 in order to magnify the date display two and a half times, making the indication more legible and clear, and this feature became one of the most recognisable hallmarks of Rolex in general.
It is no coincidence that the Datejust is the most popular and recognisable model of the brand after the cult Submariner – and the Datejust 36 allows this popularity to be presented in the most classic and elegant size of the model. This particular watch is one of the brand’s models which, thanks to its specific design, received a nickname immediately after its launch – in this case, because of the two-tone dial design and the colour solution of the date display, where some dates are red and others black, this model is called Tuxedo.
The Datejust 36 presented today has the honour of carrying inside it the calibre 3135 – one of Rolex’s most proven in-house automatic movements, a COSC-certified chronometer with 48 hours of power reserve and operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. This is a movement that over the years has proven its reliability, precision and ease of maintenance – qualities that fully correspond to the philosophy of the Datejust as an everyday yet prestigious watch.
The detail of this watch, as indeed of all modern Rolex watches we have had the opportunity to present, is truly impressive. Starting with the incredible dial, which from certain angles seems to change its depth and creates the impression that the hands and markers are “floating” in the air in a kind of weightlessness. The markers and hands are made of gold, as one would expect from Rolex, while a closer look reveals jewellery-level craftsmanship and a very aristocratic overall impression.
Moving on to the classic sapphire crystal with “Cyclops” – in this case, a high-grade sapphire has been used, which wonderfully complements the overall presence of the watch. Of course, separate attention must be paid to the case and bezel – an incredible combination of brushed 904L steel of the highest class with faceted polished edges and details in certain places, and 18-carat yellow gold. As you know, Rolex pay special attention to the steel they use and, for this purpose, have their own foundries for the production of all their alloys.
The bezel is the so-called “fluted” type, which gives the watch an incredible presence and a striking appearance on the wrist. And of course, the bracelet, strap, chain or whatever you prefer to call it – as one would expect from a Rolex, it is genuinely good... In this case, we are talking about an Oyster bracelet with centre links made of 18-carat yellow gold and a solid clasp. The only thing it lacks, but perhaps only in our opinion, is the GlideLock clasp of the Sub, although here we do have the so-called EasyLink, which allows micro-adjustment by an additional 5 mm. The lug width is 20 mm.