When the first Rolex Datejust was introduced in 1945 – the year of the brand's 40th anniversary – it made history as the first self-winding, waterproof, certified chronometer with a date indication on the dial. The “Cyclops” was added in 1953 to magnify the date display two and a half times, making it clearer and easier to read, and this feature has since become one of the most recognisable characteristics of Rolex watches in general.
In 2018, Rolex introduced the new generation of Datejust 31. This line of watches offers the characteristics of the original and iconic Rolex Datejust in a more modern design and, of course, incorporates several innovations. One of the most significant differences is the movement – the Datejust 31 has the honour of housing Calibre 2236, which offers an increased power reserve of 55 hours, automatic winding via a bidirectional rotor and the patented Syloxi silicon hairspring, providing high resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations. The movement also features the Paraflex shock protection system and, on top of all this, is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, with an accuracy of −2/+2 seconds per day after casing – a considerably stricter standard than the official COSC requirements.
It is no coincidence that the Datejust is one of the most popular and recognisable models of the brand after the iconic Submariner – and the Datejust 31 allows this popularity to be presented in a contemporary interpretation and in a size perfectly suited to the fairer half of humanity. This particular watch comes in a wonderful and relatively difficult-to-find combination – a mother-of-pearl dial with 10 high-quality diamonds serving as hour markers, which Rolex call the “Mother-of-Pearl Diamond Dial”, and an Oyster bracelet.
The detail of this watch, as indeed of all modern Rolex watches we have had the opportunity to present, is truly impressive. A closer inspection reveals the jewellery-like craftsmanship, while the overall impression is exceptionally aristocratic. Starting with the incredible dial – in this case, we are talking about the so-called “MOP Diamond Dial”, where the natural white mother-of-pearl changes its shades depending on the light and viewing angle. Every mother-of-pearl dial is unique in its structure and colour variations, while the ten diamonds, set in 18-carat gold settings, further emphasise the distinguished character of the watch.
Moving on to the classic sapphire crystal with “Cyclops”, everything is executed with the precision and attention to detail characteristic of the brand. Of course, separate attention must be paid to the case and bezel – a noble combination of brushed and polished, high-grade 904L steel, which Rolex call Oystersteel, and 18-carat white gold. The bezel is the so-called “fluted” type, crafted from 18-carat white gold, which gives the watch an incredible appearance and an elegant presence on your wrist.
And, of course, the bracelet, strap, chain or whatever you prefer to call it – as one would expect from a Rolex, it is genuinely good. In this case, we are talking about the classic three-link Oyster bracelet with a polished centre link and a substantial folding Oysterclasp, manufactured with impressive precision rather than made from folded sheet metal, as is the case with many other brands. The only thing it lacks, but perhaps only in our opinion, is the Glidelock clasp of the Submariner, although here we do have the so-called Easylink, which allows the bracelet to be easily extended by an additional 5 mm. The lug width is 16 mm, while this particular bracelet has 10 links and, in our estimation, is suitable for a wrist measuring up to approximately 18 cm in circumference.
