The Roger Dubuis brand has a very interesting history for its short existence of just 20 years. It all began in 1995, when a highly respected guru in watchmaking circles – Roger Dubuis – decided to create his own line of watches, where he would not have to comply with the policies and plans of the major manufacturers or their owners. Thus were born some of the most prized timepieces by professionals and sought after by admirers and connoisseurs, with genuine designs and unique movements – most of them entirely in-house and all meeting one of the strictest standards in the industry – the "Poinçon de Genève (Geneva seal)". Several resales of the brand followed (because independence is an expensive pleasure, and uniqueness creates considerable appetite) until the moment Richemont bought the brand with the idea of returning it to where it belongs – in the spotlight. The new owners made a very clever move – namely, they managed to attract none other than.... Roger Dubuis himself as one of the main consultants for design, development, and innovation. In this way, several birds were killed with one stone, and we get a fantastic result in the form of unique models with superb movements.
Excalibur is rightly considered the flagship line of Roger Dubuis – evoking romantic associations with the fabled times of King Arthur, this collection is conceived to be a combination of strength and magic. The strength – in its masculine, as if chiseled case design, and the magic – which lies in its complex, multifunctional movement. The references to knightly times are seen in every detail – the main dial is made just like the "Round Table" with its shape and the 12 Roman numerals, the outer ring is set at an angle to the main dial (as if playing the role of the knights' backrests). The hands are shaped like swords, and the sub-dial of the seconds hand touches the center like a huge platter of venison, as if caught in the moment of being served to the knight seated at "9 o'clock". All of this is "locked" in by the thin bezel, which seems to be notched from the marks of numerous blows from enemies who tried to penetrate the hall and reach the table…
Otherwise, if we return to the present time and try to be more pragmatic (although this timepiece does not allow an easy transition to prose), the watch is truly impressive and truly unlike any other. The case is a modern 42 mm and the thin bezel makes the watch appear even larger than this size. The lugs have triple horns, which are curved towards the wrist and thus seem to embrace your arm. The strap is curved, fits snugly against the case, and reinforces the impression of a thoroughbred, expensive object. The grey accents on the dial lend additional nobility to the design, and the massive crown is a reminder that there were times when nobility and honor had to be defended and protected with shield and sword in hand.
And of course, speaking of Roger Dubuis, we cannot fail to pay attention and homage to what truly sets the watch apart from the rest, namely its sophisticated movement – we will only mention that it easily meets two of the world-renowned standards – COSC and the "Poinçon de Genève (Geneva seal)" – one for accuracy, and the other for origin and adherence to the traditions of craftsmanship, quality, and finishing. The movement itself is Calibre RD620 – a five-position automatic chronometer with a micro-rotor – crafted with 33 jewels, with rhodium plating and providing a power reserve of over 52 hours. To our great pleasure, the manufacturer has made the model with a transparent case back, which allows us to enjoy the incredible finishing of the movement, as well as to observe its precise operation.
This is one of the few watches with a micro-rotor that we have had the pleasure of owning, and we want to share that its "buzzing" cannot be compared to any other movement.