Looking at the watch for the first time, one recalls all the opinions they have read about the brand and the model, the polarized camps of "European vs. Japanese," "Is Grand Seiko Seiko," "Is Spring Drive automatic," and so on. The very fact that the brand provokes such discussions, for us personally, speaks volumes. But yes, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver is indeed a worthy opponent to all the European high-end timepieces it is often compared to, and yes – Grand Seiko has nothing to do with Seiko – it is a separate brand, a separate philosophy, and a completely different approach from the manufacturer. Superb finishing, unique detail, the excellent quality emanates from every part of this watch, and the fact that the samurai from Seiko have invented not just a new movement, but a completely different approach to powering these timepieces of theirs only adds to the "wow" effect.
The presented model is a collaboration between Grand Seiko and Hodinkee and attention! the first of its kind from GS for the American market! Issued in a very short series of only 500 pieces and sold out in a matter of days.
The biggest changes you will see are on the dial. The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM239 Limited Edition for HODINKEE features an attractive shade of "twilight" blue, which is partly inspired by the daily transition from day to night – the hours that constitute "dusk" in English or "Yūgure" in Japanese. The "blue" color is rich, refined, and changes its shades with shadows and in different light. It can go from a matte indigo to a bright cobalt blue in an instant.
In the design of this watch, the manufacturer has not tried to make it very different by adding any decorations, additions to the case, more crowns, or disproportionate bezels – and it is precisely with this simplicity that the watch looks very thoroughbred, and from this also comes the biggest criticism of these watches from the "Seiko followers" – according to them, this watch is "too European" – for them this is a minus, but personally for us, this is a great advantage. The watch's bracelet is in the so-called "Speedmaster-style" with three brushed links separated by polished connecting elements, and what truly distinguishes Grand Seiko from Seiko are the detailing and the materials used for the dial. Such attention and precision in the craftsmanship of every marker, hands, and inscriptions is rarely seen even in the most established brands and models with centuries of tradition. The other thing that deserves attention is the bezel and especially its coating – I don't know how the Japanese did it, but it's like another dial around the main one, as it is a sapphire crystal coating, processed and polished with a special technology – in person, the impression is indescribable.
Inside the watch beats the brand's in-house caliber 9S66, an in-house movement of the brand with 35 jewels, operating at 28,800 vibrations and a power reserve of 72 hours
